So, this brings me to France, this year determined not to be ‘have no plan’, ‘chasing the sun’, or even ‘break a bone’, we decided to head towards the Dordogne. Somewhere we’ve visited before but there’s so much to see in this large Department of South West France.
We arrived at what has become our regular first stop, Camping Saint Claire, Neufchatel-en-Bray, laden with fuel and lots of food to see us over a few days, courtesy of E.Leclerc supermarket. We’ve stayed at NeB several times before, it’s a very nice campsite, perfect for the quick one/two night stop before travelling further south.
Our plan was to travel to La FlĂ©che, Sarthe. We booked ahead to a Camping-Car Park site but tbh we didn’t need to as there were plenty of spaces in September as the French had returned to work and there were just a few Belgium and Brits parked up. Not a bad site, nice level sandy pitches, could do with a tidy-up but no doubt had been busy during the July/August getaway.
We noticed a bridge leading from the campsite to no idea where, so decided to investigate. Just the other side, hidden between trees and bushes was a beautiful lake and a man-made beach. It took us about an hour to walk around the lake, nice flat tarmac but some interesting creatures to be seen on the way.
We stayed two nights and then after a very long journey we moved onto Beaulieu Sur Dordogne. The journey was mostly A roads, and there was some beautiful countryside and the usual ‘humanless’ villages. Before long, tummies were rumbling so we stopped at an Aire for lunch and met an English lady who was touring around on her motorbike, very nice but boy did she talk! Del was happy to talk bikes and travelling while I made myself ‘busy’ in the motorhome đ
Eventually we arrived in the medieval village of Beaulieu (pronounced Bew-lee), lots of little alleys and cobblestone roads, just what we’d been looking for, so beautiful. It’s quite a tight fit into the campsite (Camping Beaulieu sur Dordogne), but we were met with a smile, a good knowledge of English and we were able to quickly find our pitch in the woods. We parked up and headed the very short walk into the town, where there was so much to see we were definitely coming back the next day! We had dinner in one of the few restaurants open and enjoyed a brandy ‘on the house’ with Phil Foden’s doppelganger, although he insisted, he was an Arsenal supporter. Our late ‘mooch’ around the village left us with just one problem….. when you’re in a dark village and a little squiffy on brandy how the hell do you find your way back to the campsite?
The next day we spent walking around the town, the church, the little local shops, every corner led to a little alley or twitten as they say in Sussex; there was a small market but they were clearing up as it had begun to rain. After lunch of bread, cheese, chicken rosti rillets, tomatoes we decided to follow our ears to what sounded like a huge weir coming from the other side of the campsite. Wow! What a scene! The river Dordogne at it’s fastest, the noise was deafening and quite mesmerising, with the most beautiful reflection of the surrounding medieval buildings and shrubbery.
On our way back we made a detour to the restaurant and shared a half carafe of wine. There were several Brits on their last crumbs of an enjoyable lunch, but one couple sitting just one row behind us took our attention. Now normally I wouldn’t have written such a thing in the blog but tbh it was so hysterical and so ‘un-British’ it just had to be documented. I had moved my chair round to sit next to Del rather than opposite and this meant both of us were facing this couple. We sat chatting when all of a sudden, the ‘lady’ lifted her bum cheek and let out the most enormous fart we were absolutely astounded! We looked at each other, trying not to laugh but once they’d left, we both fell about laughing hysterically. I mean, really? It’s just not British!
Towards the end of the drink, we’d noticed the weather seemed to be changing – lots of heavy clouds and as there had been a warning of rain, possible thunder so we returned to the campsite to put away some of the furniture we’d left out. Del put away the awning, then hmm… maybe the chairs/table…. Just leaving the carpet…. All done, phew! Then literally, as he shut the van door the heavens just opened and I mean opened! It was hammering down and continued for the next 24 hours. There was just enough respite for Del to collect the pizza we’d ordered before the thunder and lightening started.
Waking up the next morning we decided this was going to be a day of sofa-surfing as the weather was truly horrendous. There was a slight lull around 12 noon and we thought we’d get a little air, how wrong can you be? Yes, we had umbrellas but we must have left as the eye of the storm was about a mile away, it can only be described as stair rods. Of course, at home there’s things such as drains and gutters, which magically take away the excess water…. but we are in a medieval town; a town with little drainage and lots of cobblestones; it was like a spur off the Dordogne and it was here to stay for quite a while! We decided we would just have to make our way back to the campsite and get wet. At one point, the entrance to the campsite was just a pond and there was no way round, just through it.
So here we are, surrounded by wet coats and shoes but it’s finally stopped raining and tomorrow we are moving on – if we can get off the water-logged pitch of course!
The journey to Bergerac took about 3 hours (non-motorway). I’m not sure why but Gary* Garmin decided to take us back up to Brive la Gailliard where as June just-go-this-way Worley thought it best to go another. Anyway, the journey was good and once again some beautiful countryside and we arrived at Bergerac “La Pelouse” when the office was closed for lunch. It was really quite muddy everywhere but we drove onto a pitch along side the Dordogne and waited until it opened. Many, and I mean many, vans arrived after us and parking was very typically French campsite, and for those with a little OCD a living nightmare! Anyway, once the office was open, we went up and queued with everyone else, quite expecting the rather large, don’t mess with me, French rugby player/campsite manager to say “tu dois dĂ©mĂ©nager” (you have to move) but he didn’t, so we stayed put. I have to mention here the Managers little girl (possibly about 2) was walking around with a pair of kitchen scissors…. Every parent in the queue was flinching, but what do you do? I’m afraid I didn’t say anything.
*initially named Gary, but possibly Gabby because she's a woman and she's always right!
The campsite was just 10 minutes’ walk along the riverbank and over the bridge into Bergerac. The weather was warm and sunny so we had a lovely stroll around the medieval town.
The following day we decided to go back across the bridge and try and find some dry footwear as our shoes were still absolutely sopping. We found a lovely shoe shop but it was closed – so many of these shops have closed for their summer holidays as they stayed open throughout August for the tourist trade. A little frustrating at times and you have to wonder how these businesses continue to thrive when they shut for 2+ hours at lunch time and close altogether for ‘holidays’. Shoe shopping was abandoned so we stopped for crĂȘpe and coffee and then went on the riverboat trip on the Dordogne. The guy spoke several languages and having asked everyone where they were from ascertained there was a majority of Brits, he promptly spoke French 90% of the time. However, it was a really pleasant cruise and he did manage to tell us a bit about the history of the Dordogne and how it was used to transport goods. Surprisingly enough, salt, was one of the main cargoes as they used copious amounts of salt to preserve their food.
So long Bergerac, and this time the very short journey to Eymet (camping de Mon village), just 25 minutes. We had had no plans to come here but following a post on Motorhoming France (Facebook), many fellow campers had recommended what a lovely place it was – and they were not wrong!
The campsite is just 10 minutes’ walk into the beautiful Eymet square, and it runs alongside the river Dropt a tributary of the Garonne. Like most places this week, it was rather muddy but we managed to find a hard standing – actually we’re not sure it was, it may just be a drive through to some other pitches, but we bagsied it and we stayed! It was a really beautiful day, hot and sunny so we did a little shopping, including visiting “A Taste of Britain” and the local Spar. The square is made up of medieval buildings and cobblestones with lots of little twittens and lanes going off. It’s mostly restaurants, bars, cafes and of course, there was a pĂątisserie; the only thing that spoiled it was the number of cars. I can understand deliveries etc. but there really is no need to spoil such a beautiful spot by car parking.
Today we woke up to rain humph… okay we’ve sort of got used to it now so we just decided to have a lazy day. Second humph of the day was the fact that my now dry trainers were still on the bonnet of the motorhome and once again wet! Lots of campers have left and let’s say ‘made their mark’ on the lovely campsite – huge great ruts of mud everywhere. We hope to be able to get into the square a little later for some dinner.
Well dinner didn’t happen as it just continued to rain. However, the following morning was bright and sunny and market day! The market was busy, very busy, mostly the same sort of things that we’d seen in previous markets, but we did find Steve the Butcher, an English guy who’d been in France for 9 years and had quite a queue at his meat stall. We bought some meat pies and some sausages, all of which were delicious. In the afternoon, it continued to be warm and sunny so we packed up the outside things ready for our trip to La Fosse the following morning.
Now, this campsite, like quite a few in France, do not have refuse bins and you have to take your rubbish with you. It really isn’t a problem, there’s plenty of places en route for you to get rid of your waste. Also, like a lot of the Europeans we hung our bags of rubbish from the bike rack on the rear of the motorhome. It wasn’t until we stopped two hours later that we realised the rubbish was still hanging there! Would have made an awful mess had they fallen off on the expressway.
And so, this brings us to our ‘paradise’ – Kathy & Dave Camping at La Fosse de TignĂ©. We’ve been coming here for 9 years and as always, our friends Kathy & Dave met us with open arms and a bottle of fizz! The campsite was full, something we’d not seen before and we had to spend one night on the overflow pitch, which really wasn’t a problem as we’d brought our day of arrival forward. The sun was shining and we were happy, that’s all that matters.
The following day one of the campers left early so we moved onto a pitch and over lunch at Chez Paul’s with the other campers we got to meet them and swap stories of our previous visits to La Fosse. We sat in the sun in the afternoon, and the only thing we could hear was the hum of the fan in the wifi box, not a bird, not a dog barking, no cars – nothing, rien, just heaven.
Unlike other times here because of our September trip we noticed that the evenings and mornings are much cooler and by 7pm it really is too chilly to sit outside; so the usual ‘chewing the fat’ with fellow campers didn’t really happen in the evenings. However, despite the change the tremendous sunset here at La Fosse doesn’t alter, just changes colour.
On Sunday, Dave fired up the barbeque and we sat with the other campers for the traditional La Fosse get together in the marquee. The weather, although windy at times is warm and sunny and the days drifted along. There are no real words to say just how perfect this place is but I found a piece of prose.
The Azure Canopy
Underneath the azure sky,
We find our peace, our spirits high.
Soft and vast, the summer blue.
A tranquil haven, tried and true.
The sun’s warm rays upon our skin.
Beneath the blue, we feel within.
A calm that soothes, a gentle grace,
In summer’s light, we find our place.
Next day (Monday) our very good friends Steve & Ruth arrived. We first met them here at La Fosse, back in 2019. You know when you meet people for the first time that you’ll be good friends even if you don’t see each other from one year to the next? Not a time goes past where we are not doubled up laughing, and so it continues too here in 2024. It’s difficult to say what we laugh about but Steve with his thick Devonian accent adds that special little twist to any tale. This evening was mainly talking and catching up with news – Del and I had put up our little tent so we were able to sit in there, out of the drafts, although I’m not convinced we were quiet enough not to disturb the other campers.
Note to self – “she was good enough to make you boil your vest and pants….” (courtesy of Steve Nott)
On Tuesday, we all went off to a new-to-us Routier called La Douceur Angevine (the sweetness of Anjou), just 20 minutes from La Fosse. The three courses starter, main and cheese or dessert (real mccoy Cornetto’s, homemade mousse etc.) , wine was extra but at 5 euros for half a carafe one can’t complain! There was a large selection of starters, usual stuff like pasta, rice, potatoes and salad, along with some hot snacks. Choice of main courses, Del and I settled for the chicken tagine. The meal came too just 14 euros each – such very good food, for such a very good price.
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| Mick Jagger's urinal |
On Wednesday we had the pleasure in riding in Steve’s big moho, only to SuperU – we didn’t really need anything but still spent over 100euros. Del wore one of his new hoodie’s that he’d bought on Saturday. At the checkout he passed the bags to me and set off the alarm. It seems that when you purchase clothes you are supposed to cut out a tag inside….. why they don’t do this at the check out I don’t know, but it was quite interesting trying to explain to the lovely girl “Julie” that he hadn’t just put it on in the shop. Del brought out the cadac and we enjoyed a chicken barbeque for lunch/dinner. Tonight, we decided we could all do with a ‘night in’ and went our separate ways – certainly didn’t need much rocking tonight!
The next day was warm, bright and sunny. Del and I went for a walk around the village. When we first came to La Fosse it was just a little tired, slightly rundown, village but over the past couple of years we’ve noticed a rejuvenation. The main ‘square’ is now beautifully paved, new lights, information signs and many of the houses and businesses we’d seen ĂĄ vendre (for sale) have now been sold and you can see a lot of money has gone into renovating these lovely old houses. It still remains to have just a boulangerie, coiffeuse (bakery & hairdresser) and one small restaurant, but it’s only 20 minutes from DouĂ© le Fontaine where there is all the shopping you’ll need. Of course, if you don’t drive you’re b*ggered!
When Del and I brought our boys across for a holiday, we took them to the Bioparc Zoo and had a really great day seeing animals in as natural a habitat as possible in the middle of France. We’d said at the beginning of the holiday that we’d quite like to go back again. This time Steve & Ruth came along too – huge thanks to Steve for taking us in his beast of a moho! We only have two seat belts so couldn’t reciprocate. Tbh, we were all a little disappointed. There didn’t seem to be as many animals as we’d seen previously and the one lone cheetah pacing back and forth was a bit upsetting. The aviaries and the giraffes were as enchanting as before, but the rest was all a bit “meh”. After a stop for lunch and coffee we all decided we’d had enough so we left. I can only think that covid and the lack of customers has had a huge impact on their finances and they would have had to sell off some of their larger animals.
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Steve & Ruth had decided that they would be leaving on Saturday to continue down through Spain. We decided that we needed just one more night of hilarity – which of course, is never short when Del & Steve get together. Ruth and I downed a half bottle of brandy and just spent the evening laughing. Such great friends and we really missed them when they left, with promises of ‘mustn’t leave it so long next time’ etc.
Dave & Kathy arranged a bbq for the campers on Saturday. We all take our main course and then dessert is supplied for everyone by someone. Today, Robert brought along some wonderful cakes and I took along our cheese – Kathy loves the Cornish Cruncher from Marks & Spencer. Kathy had written a quiz for us all, I think I came bottom with just 5/13 correct! How am I supposed to know who first sang Moon River? (It was Danny Williams, 1961). I did however, hold my head high as I got ‘antirrhinum’ correct.
During this long and sometimes raucous lunch some new campers arrived, but only for the night so we didn’t get to meet them but that’s the nice thing about La Fosse you can join in if you want but if you don’t want there’s no pressure. Many, many friendships have been made over the years at La Fosse and long may it continue! Something else happened while we were having lunch – pluie (rain) which got heavier and heavier as the evening went on. All through the night it rained and with just a couple of hours respite in the morning, it carried on throughout the day. Del and I began to have PTSD symptoms from the Which Socks are Dry’ tour of 2015!
The weather was still a bit ‘iffy’ on Monday, and as we were looking forward to revisiting Wok Saumur (previously Wok Rainbow Saumur) we agreed that we’d leave La Fosse on Wednesday. We’d decided to go up the east side of Paris and head towards Sully-sur-Loire. But more on that later as there’s stuff to tell you about our last couple of days at La Fosse.
Apparently, Wok Saumur had been closed for months for a complete refurb and wow it didn’t disappoint! Long rows of hot warming pans full of every type of Chinese food (with some English and Indian), all fresh and hot. Anything from a whole crab to a prawn cracker! For 15euros you can eat all you like, 3 courses, and also the choice of having your meat cooked by the chef. The dĂ©cor is clean, modern and has a non-living garden hanging from the ceiling.
Feeling thoroughly stuffed we returned to La Fosse and began to pack up ready for the off in the morning. There wasn’t a rush really as our planned trip was about 3.5 hours, however, in our rush of packing up, saying goodbye etc. we got halfway down the drive when Del remembered we’d forgotten to pack the CrĂ©mant. He shoved the gear box into reverse and using our new(ish) reversing camera promptly reversed into the campsite’s water pipe knocking it flat! We were just so embarrassed and of course, offered to pay, but Kathy & Dave said ‘accidents happen’ – which is almost becoming a strap line for our trips to La Fosse e.g. broken wrist….
We stopped at SuperU on the way to buy some of the things we wanted to take home with us. Last year, I bought some Rhum & Raisin ice cream and it was amazing, big fat raisins soaked in rhum (the way the French spell it). So, this year, having already eaten 2 tubs, we bought another 2 to bring home.
The trip to Sully-sur-Loire (camping Le Jardin de Sully) was a lovely drive through small villages, with umpteen donuts (roundabouts) and of course no humans. One thing we noticed and thought was a jolly good idea to slow down traffic was these figures of children at the zebra crossings, so life like.
It didn’t take long and we found the campsite easily. On arrival we received a very warm welcome with lots of information on what to see, how to get there etc. There was a gate near to our pitch that after a short walk to the ‘sturdy’ bridge (all 642 steps of it) across the Loire and to the beautiful chateau of Sully-sur-Loire. The entrance fee is just 8euros each which can be used for up to 1 year. What a stunningly, beautiful, enchanting Rapunzl-type chateau, full of little corridors, winding stairs, roofs open to the rafters, tapestries and period furniture. Definitely top of my list of chateaus we’ve seen – which is quite a few now.
We enjoyed Sully so much we decided to stay an extra day and why, I don’t know I suggested we walk into town again and explore the rest of the area. The walk across the bridge was slightly windy today….
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| Some of the best French food we'd eaten |
Our next hop towards Calais took us to Epernay; somewhere we’ve stayed a few times before. The campsite is ‘okay’, it’s a Municipal and very popular but also at 25euros for one night quite expensive. The campsite is out of town so there’s nowhere to walk even if we’d wanted to. Our pitch was alongside the river and a family of very noisy geese. Unless you’re interested in doing the champagne tour, Epernay really doesn’t have a lot to offer.
Sunday was here, our last day (where has a month gone?) and we headed towards Chateau de Gandespette for one night. The campsite was quite busy even though it was the last day of the season. We received a very warm welcome and good clear instructions on how to find our pitch; big pitches with plastic paving. Unfortunately, they weren’t very flat and when we tried to use the ramps to level up, they slipped and one of them is now completely broken – add to the bottom less list of ‘must haves’ in the world of camping.
Over the past couple of days Mollie had developed a rather loud ‘squeal’, it came and it went but sometimes was so noisy we couldn’t hear ourselves think. Del wasn’t too worried as the brakes were working well, the engine wasn’t getting hot and all was going okay, except this damned squeal. I had suggested maybe something to do with the fan…. So after 6+ hours of driving the fan was turned off and…. Yes… you’ve guessed it. Still it was a cheap fix!
Mollie has been amazing over the holiday. There’s been a few little niggles but for a motorhome that is 19 years old she is great and with the new fridge/freezer and solar panels we are as good, if not better than some of the newer models.
So, we’re now home, 4 weeks later. The weather is blooming horrid – but then it is in northern France too. We’ve started the emptying of Mollie but decided to do it in bits – washing first! We’ve both come to the conclusion that 4 weeks is perhaps just a few days too long. We’ve been to some amazing places, seen some fabulous sites, met with lovely people and eaten our weight in cheese and bread but it is so good to be home!
2024 is coming to an end – well certainly, a camping ‘end’. It’s been a really busy year for Mollie and our travels, much of which has been spent with the West Sussex District Association of Camping & Caravanning. Initially we were a little unsure as many of the members seem to have known each other for years, but we found we were welcomed into the group, so much so that I am to be the new Secretary in the new year! I’m really hoping that with my organisational skills and previous experience of charity working I’ll be able to do my bit!
2025, I can’t believe we’ve been doing this for almost 9 years and certainly done a few miles (and spent a few pounds), but it continues to be exciting, at times thrilling, relaxing and damn good fun!
